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Gorillas in Uganda - Photo: Tuareg archive

Congo-Brazzaville. The heart of darkness

A tourism development project in Congo-Brazzaville has led us to discover the forests of equatorial Africa, and also the Atlantic coast. Here are some impressions.

The African equatorial forest

It covers the north of the country, the landscape we imagined growing up watching Tarzan films. Walk along elephant trails, visit forest clearings where animals come to drink, and share meals with biologists working on different research projects. Or walk through flooded jungle in knee-deep water.

Gorillas

The Mondika area has two families of lowland gorillas habituated to humans. Meeting them is one of the greatest wildlife experiences. Better than in Uganda/Rwanda? No, but the adrenaline reaches a higher level here.


Nouabalé-Ndoki National Park

This was our destination. Just 150 visitors a year gives an idea of how untouched the environment remains. Getting there is difficult, but the journey is fascinating. The nearest airport is Ouesso; from there, we travel up the Sangha River by motorised canoe to Bomassa village, where the park offices are located. Excursions to Mbelli Bai camp, a forest clearing with an observation platform, and Mondika camp, for gorilla watching, rank in our personal travel Top 10.

Safety

Congo-Brazzaville is politically stable, with high levels of safety. It should not be confused with DR Congo, or Congo-Kinshasa. In both Brazza and Pointe-Noire, it is possible to go out for a beer in the evening without problems.


Pygmies

They accompany us on some stages as porters, lead us to see gorillas or paddle the canoes. Some still live in the forest; others build huts on the outskirts of Bomassa village.

MegaTransact

Sponsored by National Geographic, this 18-month expedition through the forests of Congo and Gabon became one of the great adventures of the 20th century.

Our journey follows some of its stages and helps us understand the magnitude and complexity of that project.

The Atlantic Coast

Unspoilt, almost deserted beaches. The downside is that they are not always clean, and they are deserted because the Atlantic waves make swimming uninviting. Perhaps conditions improve in another season.

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