Name: Special Muharram
Start: 2023-07-24
End: 2023-08-07
Location: Iran

Not long ago, Iran was on the front pages of the international press: the disappearance of Masha Amini, images of women cutting their hair, demonstrations and counter-demonstrations… Something was happening, and questions arose about the safety of travelling to Iran.

Our colleagues Gemma and Montse decided to see for themselves, packing their bags to explore the country. They had another mission: to open a new route beyond the classic Isfahan–Yazd–Shiraz/Persepolis itinerary.

And they came back excited...

Setting aside the obvious appeal of Iran’s monuments, society and landscapes, we focus on our experience and the questions travellers ask

Is it safe to travel to Iran?

Definitely yes; Iran is a safe country for the visitor.

Our worries — what if my headscarf falls off while walking? Will I stand out as a foreign woman? — soon disappeared. We were treated with complete respect throughout.

Along the way we meet people who support the government and others who oppose it; some are very religious, others not at all… Much like at home, really.

Montse and A. at the sulphur salt flats (Hormuz Island)

The headscarf (or why not wearing it is a revolutionary gesture)

In Iran, women must cover their hair with a scarf, but this did not seem one of Iranian society’s main concerns, of which there are many.

In some places, women wear headscarves; in others, SOME do not, and elsewhere we see MANY without one. Our impression is that not wearing the veil is a brave form of protest.

The headscarf in Iran (or why not wearing it is a revolutionary gesture)

About clothing in public places

Both men and women travelling to Iran must abide by the strict rules that set the way of dress in public places.

The women must cover their heads with a scarf (cotton, silk or wool depending on the season), in any colour or combination of colours.
Upper garments—jackets, T-shirts, shirts or jumpers—must fully cover the hips. Trousers or long skirts must cover the whole leg; fitted styles are acceptable if worn with the upper garments described above.
You can wear sandals without socks in summer and there are no problems with makeup.

The men may dress in a Western style but must keep their arms and legs covered in public.
Men should avoid low necklines and shorts. Short sleeves are acceptable, but bring a long-sleeved shirt for mosques and any museums or sites that require one.

Is it safe to travel to Iran? | Photo: Franc Mar

Is travelling to Iran advisable?

Is it ethical to travel to countries where human rights are not respected?

We understand the opposing view, but we favour going. Our reasons are practical rather than conceptual or philosophical: we know tourism brings local people direct income and access to different ways of thinking. The same happens in reverse: visitors see stereotypes fall away and become more tolerant.

If you are interested in Iran, choose between the classic route, a reliable choice, or an unusual adventure from the desert to the waters of the Persian Gulf.

Trip to Iran - Yazd - Towards the Light - Virginia Domínguez — Travel to Iran – Yazd – Towards the light. Virginia Domínguez

Shortages. The international embargo

Social media access in Iran is restricted but possible. A VPN must be installed before arrival, and connections may be less smooth than we are used to. Despite these restrictions, Iran’s digital world is very active.

Are sanctions really useful in changing the political order?

Economic sanctions particularly affect Iranian families; something similar to what happens in Cuba and that former President Obama denounced: After 40 years of sanctions, the government remains seemingly immutable, and it is society that suffers shortages.