As spring arrives in the southern hemisphere, Patagonia's trekking season begins. Our colleague Yolanda tells us some of his experiences travelling through Patagonia.
A few days ago we arrived in Argentina from Barcelona with the aim of travelling through the Patagonia. I don't know how many days ago because I don't keep track. After spending a couple of days visiting the highlights of Buenos Aires, we left this great city of about three million inhabitants to fly to Puerto Madryn.
Everything we have seen, explored on foot and admired since arriving has been unique, and I have lost track of time.
Valdés Peninsula
Puerto Madryn lies more than 1,000 kilometres from Buenos Aires. It is the main gateway to the Valdés Peninsula, a World Heritage Site for the variety and abundance of its marine and land wildlife.
Seeing huge southern right whales, penguins and Commerson’s dolphins up close, I felt the trip had already been worthwhile. And I still had no idea what was to come.
Our guide said we had been very lucky to see so many animals, including large numbers swimming. The boat also brought us close to coastal elephant seal colonies in Punta Delgada, Caleta Valdés and Punta Cantor. This wonderful experience continued the next day in Camarones Bay, where, as well as enjoying its beautiful unspoilt beach, we could observe abundant marine wildlife, especially the Magellanic penguins.
Perito Moreno – Cerro Fitz Roy
The three days before reaching the Perito Moreno we have walked. We have walked a lot. It has been tiring, but I would not change it for anything. On foot, slowly, as it should be, we have explored the valley of Arroyo del Salto, and reached the foot of the imposing granite wall of Fitz Roy, on the border between Chile and Argentina, a giant renowned for its extreme difficulty. While climbers queue for Everest’s summit, the top of the Fitz Roy is reached by an average of only two expeditions a year. Seeing it up close is overwhelming, even though it is half the height of the Himalayan giants.
Excursions depart from El Chaltén, a small mountain village considered the national trekking capital, which we reach via the legendary Route 40.
On another excursion, I was speechless before the incomparable view of the Cordón Adela, of Torre Glacier and the granite spires surrounding it. We also enjoy the small ice floes of the Laguna Torre. At one point, I thought our cameras would start smoking. On one walk—I no longer remember which—nature gave us one of its most splendid sights: a condor in flight. The majesty of this bird, whose wingspan can reach three metres, is hard to describe, but everyone should see it at least once if they have the chance.
Watching the condor's majestic flight brought a tear to my eye, and I don't think I was the only one.
El Calafate
After a road trip to El Calafate, the day I have most anticipated finally arrives. It dawns clear, though somewhat windy. Leaving the hotel, a flock of birds gives me a good feeling. The bus takes us towards the Magallanes Peninsula bordering the Lake Argentino. From the drop-off point, we take a short walk with our guide to a place where we are alone and can see the Canal de los Témpanos with an unusual perspective.
In the background, I hear the ice creaking. A gentle wind from the mountain chills my face, but my heart burns with excitement. The tongue of ice descending from Cerro Pietrobelli for millions of years makes me feel small, insignificant. I cannot even lift the camera to take a photograph. I want to enjoy every moment here so I can dream about it for the rest of my life. We finish aboard a boat approaching the slabs of ice about to break off into the water, but we are so close that we cannot see the glacier. The view from the lookout is the image etched in my memory, with the glacier’s own soundtrack.
Tomorrow the journey will continue. We'll go through the Lake Argentino, and visit Torres del Paine National Park. The programme also says we will walk to the Grey glacier, Salto Grande, Lake Pehoe, the Lake Nordenskjöld and the Cuernos del Paine. But deep down, I feel that my journey is already complete. Everything still to come is a bonus — a generous one, certainly.
Travel to Patagonia
Patagonia✔️ Departures 9, 23 NOV > 21 Dec 2024 > 18 Jan > 1, 15 Feb > 1 Mar 2025
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