Near Erta Ale volcano (‘smoking mountain’ in the Afar language) lies Lake Afrera. Its waters do not quench thirst, as it is a salt lake, but its minerals are a source of wealth. Water is channelled to its shores, where it evaporates, leaving fine white salt of the highest quality in the Danakil. Millions of years ago, the entire Danakil Depression was a vast sea. As it evaporated, it left enormous salt deposits, which are a source of wealth today.
It is worth visiting the salt workings to see the grid lines marking each property. After the salt flats, our next destination is Erta Ale volcano.
Ascent and time on magical Erta Ale volcano
From the salt flats, we travel for about three hours across sandy plains, then along a track through lava flows towards Ksrawat village (42 m), where we pass checkpoints established by the Afar community. The time has come to hire the local guide and enough camels to carry everything necessary for the approach to the volcano.
We cannot start walking at just any time. It is wiser to wait until the sun is less fierce and temperatures fall reasonably—though never enough here. We wait for the camels and prepare the loads.
Erta Ale’s profile may not look intimidating, but appearances are deceptive. We need a good four hours to climb from the depression, 70 metres below sea level, to an altitude of more than five hundred metres.
The final stages take place at night and are full of excitement. Orange light glows from the immense opening. Our senses are alert, and the smell of sulphur grows stronger.
By torchlight, we continue to the crater’s edge, drawn towards the volcanic basin as if by a magnetic force. The spectacle is extraordinary: flaring magma, explosions swallowing rocks, a turbulent sea of liquid black stone, a gigantic cauldron in which the Earth cooks. Erta Ale is a spectacle whose raw, fascinating power is mesmerising.
Nobody wants to go to bed, but the walk and excitement finally draw us to the Afar-built bivouacs.
Map of the Erta Ale volcano region
An outstanding geological day atop Erta Ale
We rest at camp and wake delighted to have a full day to explore the caldera. We can examine geological features, view the spectacle from different angles, take time over every detail of the summit and recover from the previous long driving days.
At sunset, we are ready for another display of nature's power. Eyes fixed on the bubbling caldera, we witness a unique spectacle, with the moon adding its magic to this extraordinary setting offered by a trip to Ethiopia. Better rested than on the ascent, we savour the sight of bubbling lava.
From Erta Ale to Ahmed Ela
With sadness mixed with the joy of discovering this jewel of Ethiopia We leave Erta Ale’s summit and begin the easier descent, which still takes around 4 hours.
We continue to Vaivedhom for lunch in the shade of palm trees and Afar hospitality. The track crosses a plain flooded during the highlands’ rainy season. Nearby is the chain of volcanoes to which the Erta Ale.
The people of Ahmed-Ela, “Ahmed’s Well”, is the only real village in this desert: five hundred salt extractors and cutters live here during the caravan months, but no more than twenty remain in the hottest summer. Caravans pay taxes for extracting and transporting salt blocks. Here, camel drivers meet the teams who extract and shape the salt.
We cannot leave the Danakil Depression without first exploring the fascinating landscape of Dallol. For a moment, we seem to be on another planet: acidic ground, salt plains below sea level and extraordinary basalt formations. What we see defies logic and all previous comparisons.
Our trip to Ethiopia continue, and we are still waiting for memorable days during the celebration of the Milhela in Axum.
Upcoming trips to Ethiopia
✔️ 18-day trip
✔️ Departures 7, 28 JUL > 11 AUG > 8 SEP > 6 OCT 2023
✔️ From 3375€
The north is the land of Christians who have left their ancient monuments as testimony.
In the south, in sub-Saharan Africa, culturally diverse peoples live alongside one another along the Omo River.
